Real estate, buy side

Buy a home in Utah.

Find a home with an agent who starts with the numbers. Budget clarity, neighborhood strategy, and offers built to win without overpaying. Wasatch Front and Back.

Numbers before neighborhoods

We start with what you can comfortably carry, not what a max approval letter says. Payment, reserves, and total cost of ownership on the table before we open a search.

Neighborhood strategy

Salt Lake, Utah, Davis, and Weber on the Front. Summit and Wasatch on the Back. Commute, schools, resale, and land use, not just zip-code averages.

Offers built to win

Structure, terms, and timing matter as much as price. We write offers that hold up in the inspection period and at appraisal, not just at acceptance.

How it goes

The process, step by step.

  1. 01

    Intro call

    Thirty minutes. What you are trying to do, where you are in the timeline, and what the numbers actually look like. No pressure.

  2. 02

    Financing lined up

    You bring your own lender or I refer one I trust. On any single purchase you choose one side of my practice, and buy-side means I am your agent, not your loan originator.

  3. 03

    Search with a filter that matters

    Not every listing. We narrow by the criteria that hold value and fit your life. Tour lists that respect your time.

  4. 04

    Offer and negotiate

    Comps, terms, contingencies, and timing tuned to the specific home and seller. You see the strategy before we send it.

  5. 05

    Inspection to close

    Inspections, appraisal, title, and financing tracked on a shared timeline. No surprises at the closing table.

  6. 06

    After close

    Contractors, refinance timing, and future moves. You keep the advisor after you get the keys.

Where I work

Wasatch Front and Back.

Salt Lake, Utah, Davis, and Weber counties on the Front. Summit and Wasatch counties on the Back. If your search is outside that range, tell me anyway. I will either take it on or refer you to someone who lives in that market.

Salt Lake
Sugar House
Millcreek
Holladay
Sandy
Draper
Cottonwood Heights
Lehi
Midway
Bountiful
Eden
Park City
Heber
Kamas
North Salt Lake
Buyer intake

Start the buyer conversation.

Buying starts with clarity about budget, timeline, and what matters, not urgency about the market. Share what you know so far and we can figure out the rest together.

Or skip the form and book a conversation.
Important disclosure

Ian Wood is a licensed Utah principal broker (Three Door Real Estate, #5888945-PB00) and a licensed mortgage loan originator (Sugarhouse Mortgage, NMLS #1774125). These are two separate practices. Utah law does not permit one person to act as both the real estate agent and the loan originator on the same purchase transaction, and I do not. On a purchase, you choose one side. I am glad to refer you to a trusted professional for the other.

Buyer FAQ

Questions buyers ask most.

Answered plainly. If yours is not here, send it and it will be.

Getting Started

Should I get pre-approved before I start looking?

Yes, and before you fall for a house, not after. Pre-approval tells you your real price range and shows sellers you are a serious buyer, which matters when offers compete. Looking first and financing later is how people end up loving a home they cannot buy. It takes a short conversation and some documents, not weeks. Financing through Sugarhouse Mortgage, NMLS 539102, Ian Wood NMLS 1774125. Equal Housing Lender. More at ianwoodhomesandloans.com.

How much do I need for a down payment?

Less than most people assume. Twenty percent avoids mortgage insurance, but plenty of buyers put down far less and still buy well. The right number depends on your loan type, your monthly comfort, and how much cash you want to keep in reserve after closing. More down is not always the smarter move. It is a tradeoff worth running before you drain your savings.

How much earnest money do I need, and is it at risk?

Earnest money is a deposit that shows the seller you are serious, typically a small percentage of the price, held in escrow and applied to your closing costs. As long as you stay within your contingency deadlines, it is protected. You lose it mainly by walking away for a reason the contract does not cover. Knowing your deadlines is most of how you keep it safe.

Finding the Right Home

How do I evaluate a neighborhood, not just a house?

The house is fixed, the neighborhood is what you actually live in. Drive it at different times, a Tuesday morning and a Friday night tell you different things. Check the commute you will really make, not the one that looks good on a map. Look at whether nearby homes are cared for, since that signals where the street is heading. A great house on the wrong block is a compromise you feel every day.

How much should schools factor in if I do not have kids in school?

More than you would think, because schools drive resale demand whether or not you use them. Homes in strong school boundaries hold value better and sell faster, since the next buyer often does have kids. Boundaries also shift, so verify the current assignment rather than trusting a listing. Even as a pure investment question, schools are part of the math.

What should I check about an HOA before buying?

Read the dues, the rules, and the financials before you are committed, not after. Dues raise your real monthly cost, the rules govern what you can actually do with your home, and a poorly funded HOA can hit owners with special assessments later. Most are fine. The point is knowing which kind you are joining while you can still walk away.

Making an Offer

How do I make a competitive offer without overpaying?

Price is only part of what a seller weighs. Terms, timing, contingencies, and a clean pre-approval often matter as much as the number. The goal is to be the offer that feels safe to accept, not just the highest. That means knowing what the seller actually needs and shaping the offer around it. Overpaying is a pricing failure, losing is often a strategy failure.

What are contingencies, and which ones should I keep?

Contingencies are the conditions that let you walk away without losing your earnest money, most commonly financing, appraisal, and inspection. They protect you, but each one you keep makes your offer slightly less attractive to a seller. Which to keep and which to shorten depends on the property and how much competition you are facing. Waiving them is a real risk, not a formality. We decide that together, deliberately.

What happens if I am competing against other buyers?

Multiple offers shift the leverage to the seller, but they do not mean you have to overpay blindly. The winning offer is usually the one with the right mix of price, clean terms, and certainty of closing. Sometimes that is you, and sometimes the smart move is to let it go and wait for the next one. Discipline in a bidding war is worth more than enthusiasm. Losing a house you overpaid for was not a win.

Inspections and Closing

What is the difference between pre-qualified and pre-approved?

Pre-qualified is an estimate based on what you tell a lender. Pre-approved means the lender has actually reviewed your documents and verified the numbers. Sellers take a pre-approval seriously and often treat a pre-qualification as a maybe. When offers compete, that difference can decide which one gets accepted. Get the real one.

What are closing costs, and how much should I expect?

Closing costs are the fees to finalize the purchase, including lender charges, title, appraisal, and prepaid items like taxes and insurance. They typically run a few percent of the price, separate from your down payment. Some can be negotiated or covered by seller concessions depending on the market. You get a written estimate well before closing, not a surprise at the table.

What happens between offer accepted and keys in hand?

Once you are under contract, the clock starts on inspection, appraisal, loan underwriting, and title work, usually over about 30 to 45 days. Each step has a deadline, and most deals move through them without drama when someone is tracking them. The failures come from missed dates and slow document responses, both avoidable. My job is to keep that timeline from becoming your problem.

What if the appraisal comes in below my offer?

If the home appraises below your offer, your loan only covers the appraised value, and the gap has to be resolved. You can cover the difference in cash, renegotiate with the seller, or challenge the appraisal with better comparables. Which path makes sense depends on how much you want the house and how the market is behaving. It is a common speed bump, and there are usually options.

What does a home inspection cover, and should I ever waive it?

An inspection is a trained set of eyes on the systems you cannot easily judge yourself: roof, foundation, electrical, plumbing, HVAC. It is how you find the expensive problems before they become yours. Waiving it to win a competitive offer is a real risk, not a formality, and it is a decision to make with clear eyes rather than in the heat of a bidding war. When it makes sense, there are safer ways to stay competitive than giving up your look at the house.

What is title insurance, and why do I need it?

Title insurance protects you against problems in the home's ownership history: an old lien, a missed heir, a filing error, anything that could surface later and challenge your right to the property. A title company researches the history before closing and insures against what the search might have missed. It is a one-time cost at closing, not a monthly one. You rarely think about it again, which is exactly the point.

What ongoing costs should I budget for beyond the mortgage?

The payment is not the whole cost of owning. Property taxes, insurance, utilities, and maintenance all land on top, and maintenance is the one people forget. A rough rule is to set aside one to two percent of the home's value each year for upkeep, more on an older home. Buying at the top of your approval and ignoring these is how a comfortable payment becomes a tight one.

Timing and Strategy

How long does the whole buying process take?

From serious looking to keys, most buyers spend a few weeks finding the right home and then about 30 to 45 days from accepted offer to closing. It moves faster when your financing is lined up and slower when it is not. The house-hunting part is the variable, since the right home shows up on its own schedule. Being ready to move when it does is the part you control.

What does a buyer's agent cost me?

Since the 2024 changes to how buyer-agent compensation works, this is a direct conversation rather than an assumption. Buyer-agent pay can come from the seller, from you, or a mix, and it is spelled out in a written agreement before we tour homes. I will walk you through exactly how it works and what it means for your out-of-pocket cost up front. No surprises, no fine print.

What is the final walkthrough, and what am I looking for?

The final walkthrough is your last visit before closing, usually a day or two out, to confirm the home is in the condition you agreed to. You are checking that agreed repairs were done, that nothing was damaged in the move-out, and that what was supposed to stay is still there. It is short, but it is your last clean chance to catch a problem before the keys change hands. Skipping it is how surprises become disputes.

Ready to look at the numbers?

Thirty minutes, real numbers, no pressure. You leave with a plan whether we work together or not.